Antwerp rocks

18 July 2006

Can the world’s hardest stone melt even the hardest of hearts? Jon Eldridge discovers why Antwerp, the centre of the diamond industry, is attracting a growing number of would-be bridegrooms. “The most important purchase a man can buy for his partner is the engagement ring,” says Rob van Beurden, diamond broker and setter. Rob’s company, Diamond House, is based in Antwerp’s famous diamond district and is one of several diamond sellers that have teamed up with the city’s top hotels to offer romantic couples a free night’s stay when they come to purchase their diamond ring. Although Diamond House was one of the first diamond sellers to realise the potential of the internet, customers are unlikely to buy a precious diamond stone without first seeing it. Van Beurden, who specialises in Solitaire diamonds, offers clients the chance to choose the specific diamond and setting they would like. Another company, Diamond Land, has gone one step further. This large store provides visitors with a short guide to the diamond trade from the discovery of the precious stones to their polishing and cutting. Visitors can watch craftsmen at work, and customers are even offered the opportunity of seeing their stones being set. “It’s important for confidence,” says Ingrid Segers of Diamond Land. “People can see what they are getting.” Newly engaged couples that buy a ring worth more than 950 euros at Diamond Land can enjoy a free night at either the Hilton or the Radisson in Antwerp. Segers says that the store welcomes on average 10 couples every weekend and that the huge savings on diamonds that the city offers more than compensate for travel expenses. But caution is advised! Arrivals to the city would do well to avoid some of the shops that line the Antwerp’s high-domed central station.  It is best to look out for stores that are recommended by the Antwerp Diamond Jewellery Association. The quality of a diamond is determined by the four Cs: cut, colour, clarity and carat. Diamonds are weighed in carats – one carat is equal to a fifth of a gram – and the larger, the clearer and the whiter the gemstone, the more precious it is.  A diamond’s certification is all-important, and only three official institutes, including the Antwerp High Council (HRD), can determine its value. Evidence of a certificate, however, is no guarantee that the diamond on sale has the value it is being sold at. For this reason, Van Beurden says that there is a fifth C: chemistry. “If you find that that is lacking [between you and seller], don’t buy,” he says. In fact, the Mayor of Antwerp, Patrick Janssens, is trying to encourage more of the big-name stores into the city. “What people buy at Tiffany’s is peace of mind. They are aware that they are overpaying,” says Van Beurden. While the city may control between 60 to 70 percent of the trade in diamonds, fashion in jewellery is concentrated in London, Milan and Paris. The Mayor would like to see Antwerp, which has an established reputation for clothes fashion, develop into a centre for jewellery. Fashions in diamonds, however, appear to be as enduring as the stones. Ingrid Segers says that she can tell by the nationality of the customer what type of jewellery he or she is looking for in her store. Americans tend to opt for big stones set in yellow gold, while the Japanese prefer modern-looking jewellery using platinum. But traditional designs are the most popular for long-lasting jewellery, says Van Beurden. Stars of CCTV His office on Vestingstraat overlooks the main trading street, Hovenerstraat, where Antwerp’s diamond banks and bourses are situated and where it is not uncommon to see Jewish and Indian brokers scurrying between offices with their briefcases handcuffed to their hands. This district is heavily patrolled by undercover security guards and CCTV cameras and is not geared towards the casual tourist in the same way as the diamond region in Amsterdam. But says Van Beurden, “It has an atmosphere that you cannot find in Amsterdam.” Van Beurden offers short tours of the district for small groups. The Antwerp Tourist also runs guided walks and caters for larger groups (www.visitantwerpen.be). In spite of the high security, the diamond industry still runs on trust. “Jewellery stores have family names to reflect trust because the diamond world is so non-transparent,” says Van Beurden, who had to wait 13 years to become one of the 1500 members of the International Diamond Federation. When diamonds are traded, a price and a pay-by date are agreed, and the deal is concluded with a handshake. The purchaser and seller both then wish each other good luck saying the Yiddish word mazel. If someone were to renege on an agreement, he would be instantly shunned. The system has its merits. “If every industry was like the diamond industry, we’d have no need for lawyers,” says Van Beurden. World conquerors The Diamond Museum, situated in front of the Central Station, is a good place to find out about how Antwerp became a world’s largest diamond trading centre. As well as containing an extensive of collection of jewellery includes replicas of the British crown jewels, the museum boasts an array of vintage cutters and polishers. The development of laser-guided tools in recent years has revolutionised their operation. Diamond is the hardest substance on earth and can only be cut by diamond. The “Antwerp Cut”, which is multifaceted and pointed underneath, is designed to maximise the brilliancy of the stone. The diamond industry is extremely important to the Belgian economy representing 7 percent of its exports. In recent years Dubai has emerged as a rival trading centre, and experts differ on whether Antwerp will be able to retain its position as the No. 1 diamond centre. In spite of recent discoveries of diamonds in Canada and the growing importance of the South American market, the majority of rough diamonds are still controlled by De Beers, which operates out of London. Many believe that Antwerp’s good connections and long-standing association with the diamond trade will ensure that the city remains the centre for world trade for many years to come. A version of this article originally appeared in Red Hot magazine.

 

< Prev		Next >